![]() It also will consolidate old oxidized paint and give it a sheen to boot. Most paint stores and big boxes carry quarts of Ospho for $15 or so. You can apply an automotive clear coat over that or a film of Penetrol. Ospho will dissolve light surface rust and leave a bare metal surface with a layer of iron phosphate a few microns deep. Ospho is a phosphoric acid treatment that converts rust into inert iron phosphate, which is black in color. Just scub it down with fine steel wool soaked in Penetrol, let it sit a spell then wipe off the excess and allow to dry. ![]() It'll rejuvenate old faded fiberglass, too. It'll consolidate oxidized paint and give it a sheen. ![]() It won't blister and flake off like a coating. Items exposed to the weather will need wiping down with a rag wet with Penetrol once or twice a year to renew the finish. You just saturate their surfaces with it then wait 12-24 hours for it to dry. Penetrol will be the easiest, cheapest and most practical product to use to protect rusty metal surfaces and ancient oxidized paint. Landscape Contractor - East Bend, North CarolinaĪ. I just used the Penetrol alone with no polyurethane. The Penetrol has sealed in the rust to preserve the natural patina with no additional rusting. I used it to seal iron ball finials on fence posts which have been exposed to the weather for many years. Hi Bert, I have used Penetrol to seal rusted metal and has worked real well. It's a long thread, so it's easy to miss stuff, but Brad M does talk about Penetrol. Does anyone have any experience in this? Should I seal the metal first and then attach the tiles or attach the tiles and then seal any exposed metal? Since these are for interior, do I need to be concerned about sealing the metal? Thank you. My question is about adhering tiles to the metal. The panels are for interior not exterior. Solution, burnishing the metal with an old leather glove to smooth the surface and then sealing with a matte polyurethane. I read Tom from Minnesota's post about rinsing the rusted metal with a water and baking soda [adv: item on This is to prevent the metal panels from flexing. Because the panels are so thin, my plan is to attach the panel to a piece of cement backer board or wood with some type of adhesive. The rust is not new, but some will come off if you rub it. I want to adhere ceramic tiles I make to the panels to create wall hangings. I'm a mosaic artist and have these very thin rusted metal panels about 12"X 15". I would bet that the typical clear coats in a spray can like Krylon are "exterior polyurethane for metal". Remaining balance to be paid in cash upon pickup.Hi Jay. Additional photos available upon request. Please contact owner at 843 877-4595 with any questions. The bad stuff (things the new owner can work on to make it his own): cracked windshield (new one is $300,) no heat or a/c (it's a rat rod.) no wiper motor, side glass is there but broken, does go up and down. SC tagged, titled and insured as 79 Chevy truck. All steel, no bondo an urethane clear coat. B&M shifter, (4) new gauges, used speedo (not accurate,)ĭual exhaust stacks, good tires and aluminum wheels. All new belts, hoses, plugs, wires, cap and rotor. New master cylinder, rebuilt hydroboost,fresh oil and filter, fresh trans oil and filter. 350 V8, turbo 400, electric fan, aluminum radiator, new PS pump,Edelbrock intake and carb. All Chevy mechanicals, drive and electrics. Studebaker 3R5 pickup on 1979 Chevy C30 chassis. 1954 Studebaker 3R5 Description: 1954 Studebaker truck rat rod for sale.
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